.22 BSA Meteor Mk IV Reassembly

In a far flung corner of the kitchen, south of the bread bin and east of the kettle, just past the pile of battery chargers and assorted bike lights, sat the dismantled BSA Meteor. It sat there for a week and every time i made a cup of tea or dinner, i thought, i really should put this back together and get some pictures. So one day while i had a korma simmering away, it , the tool kit, and all my other bits and bobs got moved to the kitchen table and work commensed.

 The serial number puts this as a late model MkIV.

Even though this air rifle is about four decades old, general wear a tear had not removed all the burrs and sharp edges, so attaching a small grinding head to the Draper mini drill i gave the rifle a once over. 

Removing burrs from where the cocking arm is fitted.

Removing the sharp edge to the piston and compression tube cocking slot by gently running the grinding head along, 

Old air rifles still have a sharp edge on the piston as a rule.

and the edges and corners where the cocking arm goes in as well as the inner edges of the holes for the main spring retaining pin. 

Main spring retaining pin holes tend to need deburring to protect the piston seal.

Then using the cleaning rod with some white spirit on some kitchen towel i cleaned the inside of the piston and compression tube, i didn't want any tiny bits of metal dust from the grinding buggering up the O ring seal.

Clean the metal dust out of the tube and piston before reassembly.

The piston with the old O ring would slide half way down the compression tube with my finger over the transfer port telling me the O ring seal was very worn, 

With the old piston seal this is where the piston rested with the transfer port blocked.

so the O ring seal came off and a new one was sized up from the big red box of O rings. 

A slightly undersized O ring makes a good fit as a general rule.

 The inner diameter of the compression tube is 26 mm but a 3 mm thick O ring that size  was a tad to big on the piston, so going the next size down had the O ring fitting the piston head pretty snug. It was also a snug fit in the compression tube and stayed were it was when i tried to push it down with my finger over the transfer port, and took very little pressure to move the piston when i removed my finger from the transfer port, perfect!

With new O ring the piston stays at the top with the transfer port blocked

Applying a little Abbey SM2 to the O ring seal and some Abbey LT50 below the piston head and on the skirt,

A touch of Abbey SM 2 for the O ring seal.

A dab of Abbey LT50 (moly grease) for the head and skirt of the piston body.

 the piston was fitted into the compression tube with both cocking slots aligned. I cleaned the mainspring and polished the ends with the mini drill as it saves time and blisters,

Just a few of the many useful attachments for the mini drill.

 and applying a liberal amount of LT 50 grease and a a bronze slip washer to the end i fitted it in the piston. 

Bronze slip washer, main spring, and not too much moly grease.

The washer that sits at the end of the spring guide and holds the main spring is a little chewed up, so another bronze slip washer was placed between it and the main spring. With a little LT 50 grease over all surfaces it was put in the end of the main spring, i left out the 4 mm delrin spacer i had in it from last time. I made sure the washer was a tight as possible to the spring guide, as it slips down the guide and rests against a slight lip.

Spring guide, spring support washer, and bronze slip washer before a light coating of moly grease.

Placing the compression tube assembly in the spring compressor with the fitting tool in place the two inches of pre load was pushed back in, it needed a light guiding hand to get it past the end of the tube. 

Min spring removal tool will need guiding by hand as it enters the compression tube.

The spring guide stayed where it was and had to be teased up with a screw driver so the retaining pin would fit, it also aligned the retaining pin holes with the cut out in the special tool. 

Screw driver will clear the path of the retaining pin.

The retaining pin slipped in the right way around and pressure was released from the spring compressor, there is a little chip out of the shaped side if the retaining pin but it's not on a pressure bearing side.

 The pressure bearing side of the pin is on the undamaged side as the spring compressor is released.

The barrel had a crap home made delrin breech seal which was removed and cleaned, and a spare breech seal i had sitting in the spares box put in it's place.

New BSA breech seal is fitted.

 Over the years the pivot pin in the breech had worn the breech hole a tad wider making the the barrel loose and move in the forks, and the only way to fix this without replacing the barrel is to shim the hole.

A very worn pivot pin hole on the breech.

 I originally used a piece of bar the same diameter as the pin to hold a shim cut from a tango can in place in the breech when fitting the pivot pin, i had lost that so i used a piece of 6 mm wooden dowel which had swollen slightly to the .25 inch which is the diameter of the pin..The dowel was cut so it was the same width as the breech and a strip of shim also cut to that size, the shim was wrapped around the dowel and where it creased where it met the start of the shim it was cut. 

Shim material is rolled around the dowel and cut to size.

Applying a little spot of LT 50 to the breech hole the dowel with the shim around it was pushed in sightly. The detent bar and spring were greased a replaced, 

Moly grease the detent bar and spring

and pushing it down on the back of a chair the dowel and shim where pushed all the way in so they were flush with the breech holding the detent bar in place.

Dowel and shim holding the detent bar in place.

The forks had been bent out because the stock screws had bit into the stock and push the tabs below outwards by pressing against the breech, i had bent them back in the vice making sure i had something between them so as not to damage them. 

Pressure from a vice staightens out the forks.

With this done the barrel breech was very tight between the forks, slipping the breech behind the pivot hole upside down and flipping around so the holes lined up. Making sure the lightly greased pivot pin was entering the right way around through the left hand fork it was gently tapped through the breech with a rubber mallet, the pin pushed the dowel out the other side leaving the shim behind. 

The barrel is uncocked at this point so the pivot pin can drive all the way home.

When the pin reached the other fork the barrel was cocked making it easier to guide it all the way home, as i didn't want to knock the forks out of alignment again.With the barrel fitted the cocking arm was ground for sharp edges, cleaned, greased both ends, then fitted into the compression chamber, then the breech.

Fitting the cocking arm with a dab of moly grease at each end.

Getting on to the trigger i had noticed that a small bit had broken off that held the spring,it held but needed cutting deeper to make it more secure.

The trigger with a bit broken off it seems to be made of cast metal.

So a deeper groove was cut using the cutting disk off the mini drill, this also has a benefit by creating less tension on the trigger.

Cutting a lip to hold the trigger spring securely.

Now the sear could be replaced, followed by the trigger, then the stop pin behind that.

The fitting of the pins in the trigger assembly is reletively easy.

Now the action and barrel were sorted the plastic end cap can go on the back, the stock was attached by the trigger guard screw a little, then the guard was slipped in and the screw tightened by finger then finished with a screw driver.

I sometimes have to waggle the trigger guard slightly to slip it into place.

Finally the front stock screws had to have enough washers to make sure the forks weren't pushed out when tightened, ideally some sort of brass cup would do the job here.

The forstock screws are pretty knackered, but hold tight with some washers to stop them pushing the forks apart.

Seeing as the rear sights were missing i decided to fit the Rangeright 4x32 scope for testing, i dont know what it is about me and old BSA's but they are always missing the rear sights when i get my hands on them.

Ready for a trip to the woods.

That's the Meteor sorted for now, all i need to do is sight it in and see how it does. If all goes well with that then i might clean and oil the stock and put some enamel paint on the metal work, mind you i quite like the bare metal finish when it's cleaned, polished and oiled.

TTFN

Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe

Webley Hawk Mk II Accuracy

And General Handling.

4x32 Range Right scope fitted to the Webley Hawk and one unimpressed pooch

Now i'm happy with how the Webley Hawk is performing after a little tinkering, it's time to see just how accurate she can be with what ever .177 pellets i have. All pellets sit deep in the breech when loading, but there is no more than 10 FPS variation in velocity. I perfer pellets to sit firm and flush in the breech, but in this case i'm going to have to make a tool to seat them the same depth each time which should reduce some of the variation in velocity. I always felt that deep seating a pellet increases the transfer port size and effects a rifles power, though that is not always the case.

Making dinner while changing the main spring

With both inner and outer Relum main springs fitted the rifle takes a little more effort to cock than before, though i'm happy to note that it hasn't made the rifle any harsher to fire. 

Inner and outer Relum spring replacing the tired original with top hat, the inner spring bound up with the top hat.

To much preload to guide by hand

Blood on spring compressor to prove the point.

A block of wood helped guide the spring.

Fitted on 1st attempt.

The trigger has no first stage travel and breaks cleanly without pulling the shot, just like my other 1970's British springers. The off hand balances the rifle about four inches in front of the trigger guard, 

Point of balance shows the rifle is front heavy.

 this is at the end of the the cocking slot on the stock which is pretty long because of the one piece cocking link. 

Very long cocking slot.

The rifle is front heavy because it sits in a Mk III stock and not the Mk II it should have, 

Trigger catches on the Mk III trigger guard.

and because of this i turned the trigger guard around to give the trigger some clearence. 

Before.

After, trigger doesn't catch on the guard.

Though whether this gives the rifle a little more pull length i'm not sure, it's certainly comfortable for me to shoulder and my cheek rests on the combe without having to stoop my neck.

Because the rear sight is not adjustable for windage until i can repair it and probably fill a whole blog on it's own, 

Rear sight in need of repair.

i fitted the Range Right 4x32 scope which gives a clear and crisp view as it did to great effect when i used it for hunting with the Sharp Innova. 

4x32 scope will sight the rifle.

It's just unfortunate i only have barrel cleaning rods for .22 as the barrel could do with a good clean, though i do have a brass wire brush in .177 i will have to wait till i get some cleaning patches to clean it properly.

The brass brush alone will not clean the barrel thouroughly.

Using a left over cardboard box as a target and for sighting in the scope i went down the woods where it wasn't blowing a gale, 

Old boxes left over from Xmas are good for target practice.

five shots had it sighted in enough for me to test the grouping. I hadn't cleaned the barrel so whatever groups i achieved would improve when i got around to cleaning it, but for now it would give me a fair idea of how it would shoot even though my off hand wasn't in exactly the same place for all shots. Out of the AA Diabolo's, H&N Field Trophies and Geco Wadcutters i found the 

In the woods and ready for target practice.

Geco's to be the most accurate at 15 yards, giving me a two pence size group every time if i sat with my back to a tree holding the rifle gently and supporting my off hand on my knee. 

Pretty good for 15 yards with a dirty barrel.

There was very mild surge and recoil so following through was easy. however at 30 yards there was too much crosswind and the wadcutters loose it at that distance. What i did discover was that the scope had crept back 3 mm along the dovetails while testing the rifle, i suppose i will have to fit it more securely next time or invest in a scope stop.

Have to do something about that scope shift.

Happy with these results i headed back home where i cleaned the barrel by pushing a .177 brass wire brush through the barrel, using some Map Pro 7 gun cleaning oil on the end of 3 mm thick metal wire being careful not to touch the rifling. I repeated this about ten times then pushed through small squares of dried baby wipes, the first one came out filthy so i repeated this till they came out clean. 

Yep! that barrel was pretty dirty alright.

Looking down the barrel i could see a marked difference as it was now clean an very shiney, all i need to do now is put some pellets down it to coat the rifling before i test it again. I also need to take it out more often so i can find a hold that is constant from shot to shot, as with all my springers that would be supporting the stock in front of the trigger guard with my off hand.

Ready for a retest.

Now all i have to do is wait for a less blustery day or find a more sheltered part of the woods, until then..

TTFN

Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe

Trigger reassembly

This is how safety, sear, trigger, and two springs should sit inside the trigger housing.

Slide in safety, fit spring in sear pin hole then fit in housing,  with the aid of needle nose pliers line up spring loop over the sear hole and safety hole in trigger housing, then insert pin.. Sear pin first, followed by safety pin.

Fit circlips to secure pins.

Use pliers to get sear in correct position and fit trigger with return spring in place, then insert pin through housing hole, safety, and trigger.

Fit final circlip to the trigger and you should be ready to go, if not just try it again till you get it right eventually.

And that's how it's done