How To: Sight Adjustment On The Swiss Arms/GSG P92

I find that my P92 tends to hit two inches down and one and a half inches to the left of where it's aiming when I fire it from five yards, every single bloody time without fail. This is infuriating as the open sights are molded on and therefore non-bloody-adjustable. 

 I like it but it's not a Beretta is it now?

So if I can't adjust the sights, what the buggery can I do? 

Stone the bloody crows - I can move the inner brass smoothbore barrel to line up with the sights, why didn't I think of this before?! Looking down the barrel you can see the inner barrel is off-centre in the recess of the outer barrel, and why it shoots off target.

Should have taken the picture when it was still in the pistol, but the inner brass barrel is definitely pointing down and to the right.

So by removing the inner barrel and packing it out with electrical tape till it pushes it away from the inner wall of the outer barrel, I could get it more central.

I've covered field stripping the P92 before, it's pretty simple really. First drop the magazine,

The mag is dropped as the feed lips on top get in the way of the slide's blowback unit and feed nozzle.

press the button on the right hand side of the frame above the trigger guard,

That's the button.

push the takedown lever 90 degrees downwards on the left side, 

And that's the takedown lever, the whole process can be done very quickly with one hand with a bit of practice (you know, like in the movies when the good guy disarms the bad guy by just pulling the slide off his gun, then cracking him in the nuts with his knee cap).

then the slide simply pulls off forwards.

There it goes, smooth as butter or some vegan alternative.

 Then for easier results you can turn the recoil spring guide 180 degrees (upside down), then push the recoil spring and guide as far forward as you can toward the front of the slide. 

It does come out easy, just be sure the feed nozzle is out of the way as it can slip forward.

Now you can pull the breech and barrel down and out from the rear.

In bits and all ready to rock and roll.

It's a pretty good idea around this time to check that the blowback unit isn't loose, as they are usually held in with one or two small screws.

The threads on this little screw that holds the blowback unit and bits in place could be finer, but as they're not it can work loose a little after a bit of use. Just check it now and again if the pistol gets a lot of use, or even use a bit of loctite thread glue.

The inner barrel is connected to the outer barrel body with two pins that run though the bottom of the breech, 

The two pins thet hold the inner barrel, they're metal coloured as i've removed them before.

 tap these out from the right with a punch easily enough, 

This one came out by pushing a pin on it

In fact i could pull it out with my fingers at this piont.

and the inner barrel slides out with it's housing. You might find the rear pin a bit stiff to remove but it does go eventually, and the inner and outer barrel bodies are a pretty snug fit so might need a gentle tap as well.

This pin however was a little tighter and needed a little tapping with the head of some pliers.

I had to tap the inner barrel block out , but after one gentle tap with the pliers it came freely by hand.

Also the pins are knurled at one end to hold them in place, so remember to tap them back the right way round when reassembling the pistol.

The shorter rear pin is wider and also tighter, notice the knurling that helps lock them in place at the right side.

The inside of the outer barrel is tapered toward the front, so when it comes to wrapping tape around the inner barrel take this into account - I chose to tape the middle of the barrel so half was left free floating. I might try different places in future to see if accuracy is affected with having more or less of the inner barrel free floating, but for now I want it shooting where it's sighted.

Once there was enough tape around the inner barrel to make a snug fit in the outer barrel, I removed three layers. I added six small layers to the bottom  to push the barrel up, one to the left side and five to the right to centralise it to where I reckon the sights where set to. 

Inner barrel now fitted and sat central on the hole at the end of the outer barrel.

I then reassembled the gun to see if it was shooting straight. I only put the looser fitting pin in the breech just in case I had to do some more adjustment. 

just used the looser pin to test the gun on reassembly.

I decided to remove a layer of tape from the top and add one to the bottom.

Out again and a moved tape about a bit to my satisfaction.

When I reassembled the pistol this time I fitted both pins as I was very happy with the results. Now I can get a nice 'inch at a pinch' grouping using the open sights from seven yards

Inner barrel now sits high and central vertically, shame I got the lens cover off the camera in the picture. Shit happens.

This is the only blowback pistol that this method can be used on to my knowledge, as the Sig X5 and the 1911 both need the inner barrel to move a little when the slide moves back. But then again this is the only pistol (to my knowledge) that is so fucking inaccurate out of the box, however my experience is limited with this type of pistol so it's all a learning curve!

Just a little picture of one of two toy guns I use for speed drawing practice to save wear on the BB pistol's paint job.

Thats it for now.

Best wishes, Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe.

P.S. I'm pretty certain this will work with the airsoft version as it's just a bigger caliber, In fact I can't see why KWC don't do a conversion kit to get it shooting 6mm BB's(and visa versa).    

Swiss Arms GSG/P 92 .177 BB Pistol, First Month Review, Field Strip and Lube.

The P92 comes securely packaged in a box with snug fitting polystyrene.

This is another KWC blowback pistol sold through Swiss Arms. Like the 1911 and Sig X five, it is a field strippable replica with the magazine holding BB's, Co2 and valve. What it is though is an unlicensed copy of a copy of the Beretta 92 fs, an Italian 9 mm pistol introduced in 1972 which is now also made in America under license for the police and armed forces and replaced the 1911 in 1985 as the standard issue side arm. You can also find copies of this gun produced in many countries around the world, the most well known being Taurus in Brazil. In fact you will find that this Co2 pistol is actually an unlicenced replica of the Taurus PT 92 B firearm itself, but it still originates from that iconic Italian 9 mm pistol that has proved so popular over the last 40 odd years.

 

This is what comes out the box, as well as a Chinglish instruction manual.

There are a couple of things that differ from the original Bereta firearm; these are the safety, which denotes it as the Taurus and is on the frame below the slide at the rear and not the slide, and the magazine, which is shaped slightly different at the base so a Co2 cartridge will fit below the valve. It's not a problem though as it looks like a high capacity magazine, and is roughly the right shape for a Taurus mag base.

 

This pistol has the usual light engraving of the lengthy warning on the other side of the slide as well as brand name and calibre on this side.

There is a weaver rail at the bottom of the frame which you could attach a bridge mount rail for a red dot sight, a laser designator, or even a torch, which is in keeping with it's tactical look. With the front post and unadjustable rear sight set so at 8 yards the BB's fall to the right and 2 inches down, the notch in the rear sight is quite wide and it would improve accuracy to have one of these things fitted. However there is a white dot at the base of the rear notch that helps to align the front post, it helps but only when there is plenty of light about. Considering it's not a target pistol but a tin can blasting BB gun, it works fine as it is, but it would be a lot easier to aquire targets if the white dot was on the front post instead.

The safety is a three position lever; it gives you 'safe', which can only be applied when the hammer is cocked or half cocked, 'semi auto' and 'full auto', but the gun is hobbled to give you semi auto in the semi and full auto positions. You can find the mods very easily to convert the gun to full auto on You Tube, but in the UK full auto is not allowed and you would get your pee pee severely slapped by the law of the land. 

This in another world is the selector position for full auto, it goes semi auto just as it does when the switch is horizontal.

Besides, it's wildly bloody inaccurate in full auto and a waste of Co2, basically I wouldn't bother as it will totally bugger your gun up. With the safety on, the trigger moves freely because it is disengaged somehow; remove the grips and you see how that works to some degree.

 

This is the selector position for safe, also the slide lock holds the slide back after the last shot.

What I do find totally amazing is the trigger in single action. It's really light and is set back to just before breaking point when the hammer has been cocked, and utterly predictable when compared to all other KWC blowback products I have come across. This, plus the solid, heavy feel to the blowback are most likely the main attractions to this gun. Double action isn't too heavy either which means you don't need to rack the slide to fire it, but you might as well as a BB is only loaded when the slide has been racked, besides, that's half the fun. Another groovy thing is that the trigger works just like the original with the metal bar on the right side of the gun swinging forward, as does the takedown bar and mag release. 

More moving parts than you could shake a stick at

In fact the only molded features are the trigger pin and of course the sights which have already been mentioned.

The magazine which is released by the button catch on the front of the grip by the trigger guard is a self contained ammo and power unit, just like the real steel. 

you can buy spare magazines for the P92, they're just not in stock very often.

It contains space for 21 steel BB's at the front which are loaded from the top, while the spring and follower are held down by your thumb as there is nowhere to lock it when loading. The 12g Co2 capsule fits in the bottom of the mag and is secured in place with a circular screw cup made of plastic; with fresh Co2 in the mag the cup is tightened with an allen key until just past the point the Co2 stops hissing after piercing. Tighten too much and you can damage the seal between the capsule and the valve sat at the top of the mag. A couple of times, I have had to tighten a little further when a slight hiss starts after a couple of shots into a fresh Co2 capsule, but that seems to have settled down now.

 
To strip the gun down for cleaning and lubrication the mag needs to be taken out so the slide can be removed. Press in the button on the right side of the takedown lever which is above the front of the trigger guard, so the switch on the left hand side can be moved 90 degrees to point downwards.

Press the take down lever button with your for finger,

and move the lever down 90 degrees with the thumb of the same hand. Or you could use both hands, it's up to you.

Now the slide is free to be removed by pulling forward off the pistol frame, which is cool as you don't have to pull the slide back to move the take down lever like you do on many other guns.

The slide comes off easy... Did you know that originally the Bereta did not have a take down lever and an assialant that was too close to you could reach out and just remove the slide, disarming your gun.

Then, turning the slide upside down, turn the recoil spring guide around 180 degrees and push all the way forward, compressing the recoil spring completely.

Note the flat on the collar of the recoil spring guide, facing at 90 degrees at the moment.

This now gives space for the barrel and breech unit to be removed by lifting at the breech and sliding out to the rear.

The barrel and breech do not come out until the flat of the guide is facing the barrel and the spring fully compressed.

Now that you have the slide in it's three main components, it is ready for a clean and lube.

 All ready for cleaning and lubrication.

l must admit that when it came to giving the now stripped pistol a wipe down with some kitchen towel, I found it to be pretty clean compared to say the Sig X Five which was fairly grubby. So silicone grease was dabbed on to the exposed outer barrel and rubbed in with kitchen towel to spread it sparingly.

That's too much grease really

This removes the excess.

Then, removing the recoil spring from the guide, more grease was applied to the guide and spread around between finger and thumb before replacing the spring.

More grease here and after a few shots it gets worked into the spring.

Next, using a mix of mostly silicone oil with a dab of silicone grease, I lubricated where the slide, frame and breech all came into contact; this was spread into tight corners with the aid of a little rolled up paper towel.

Add mixture along the runners on both sides here.....

here.....

and here.

Once it was cleaned and lubricated it was a simple matter of reversing the take down instructions to put it back together.

Fit and press in recoil spring and guide making sure the flat on the guide faces the barrel.

It's a snug fit but the barrel and breech slide in.

On releasing the recoil spring make sure the flat on the guide is facing the pistol frame, then he slide simply slides on again.

And push lever back into position to lock the slide in place.

Then using just the silicone oil, I lubricated the spring and BB follower in the magazine, as well as the slide lock tab at the top of the mag for good measure.

Even though silicone oil won't do any damage, it's still best to avoid getting any on the transfer port on top of the magazine.

Any excess oil and grease is wiped away and the pistol is ready for shooting again, once some more Co2 and BB's have been loaded into the magazine.

Wiping oil and grease can give the pistol a more realistic look

All in all, this is a pretty cool replica of the Taurus PT 92, apart from all the white writing all over the slide and frame. There are several methods to remove this, from sanding down and respraying to filling the writing with acrylic paint or permanent marker. Dispite the BB's not landing where the sights say they should, they do however group as small as just over an inch at six yards if care is taken. Two inch groups are the norm when shooting off hand or rapidly, and as there is no catch for the follower in the mag you can load and fire the full compliment of 21 BB's without problems.

It's not too loud either as the report and blow back can be heard in equal measure when you shoot it, in fact the most noticable noise comes from the BB's hitting the target. I have hours of fun quick drawing from my waist band and shooting at multiple 4 inch square metal plates at 6 to 9 yards, rebounding BB's were a problem until I started to angle the metal target plates pointing down.
 
Spare magazines are pretty hard to source unlike the 1911, but I recently managed to find one for my Sig X Five and they're hard to find as well. So i'm not abandoning all hope of finding one just yet, just be in the right place at the right time, or the right air gun shop web site.

TTFN

Best wishes, Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe.